So it's a Trenton. That part is pretty easy. There are no numbers or letters on it. The anvil had some crazy good rebound. Trying to figure out it's age and how it's made. I can't seem to find a seam on the top where a tool steel plate would be. Again, it rebounds and rings like crazy. Also, it had some interesting marks on the waist of the anvil. Save trenton anvil to get e-mail alerts and updates on your eBay Feed. + 7 S 0 P O N S O A R P A 7 E E D-1-1 U J-1 0 F J-1-1. Under $800.00 - apply Price filter. Number of bids and bid amounts may be slightly out of date. See each listing for international shipping options and costs.
- Trenton Anvil Serial Number A 72383
- Trenton Anvil Serial Number List
- Old Trenton Anvil Serial Numbers Location Numbers
- American Trenton Anvils
>More to the point, amongst the nearly complete set of blacksmith >tools I am now the proud owner of is the anvil. It is marked >underneath the horn, on the foot, with a series of stamped >numbers/letters. The first character looks like a capital T with a >capital Z that has been rotated clockwise 45 degrees stamped over the >top of the T; not above it, but in the same space as the T. >Following that is '157' a bit of a space, and then 'A86799' I have >not found any other legible markings. All the characters are about >1/2' tall. The anvil has a seam visible at the waist, and a fine line >visible where the top plate is attached. It has both a hardie and >pritchel hole also.
- Jul 06, 2016. Date, and learn more about old anvils. It's a Trenton anvil. Thanks for posting the pics of the logo stamp and serial number! This is a multi-thousand year old trade and much of the. Need help identifying this Trenton anvil. Flour and look harder for a serial number. If the anvil was a Trenton, the serial number 21569 would.
- Earliest American Made Trenton Anvil, 120 lbs. The Columbus Forge and Iron Company began making anvils in 1898. The serial A1048, numbers of this anvil dates it to the first year of production.Modeled after the German Trenton of earlier times, this anvil was the first of many anvils made with the new 3 piece construction.
It has a nice ring to it when struck. >Is that enough information for anyone to identify the beast? >Brad Heuver Brad, as I wrote you earlier I believed this anvil to be a Hay-Budden.
Last night I reread the Hay-Budden section in Richard Postman's 'Anvils in America', (just published and by far the best work on the subject available!), and I think I found the clincher! 'There is one other diference in those anvils with the 'A' prefix. The number on the front of the waist under the horn is always a '4'. Somtimes the '4' is upside down.' This 'upside down `4' sure sounds like your 'T-Z' mark.
Please double check the serial though the 'A' series are not listed as having gone as far as the 80K's, (if it is a 30K number it was made in the early 1920's) BTW although two british firms Mousehole and Peter Wright used the old hundredweight system of marking, most of the american firms did not. They used a simple weight stamp. In article, Gene Olson wrote: >Well, as long as we are in ID mode.
>(what the heck as long as it works) >>I bought an anvil new in about 1971. >>I would describe it as cast steel. >It is marked England on one side and 77 kg on the other. >It has a very thick heel and 1 1/4 in hardee hole.
Jul 06, 2016. Date, and learn more about old anvils. It's a Trenton anvil. Thanks for posting the pics of the logo stamp and serial number! This is a multi-thousand year old trade and much of the. Need help identifying this Trenton anvil. Flour and look harder for a serial number. If the anvil was a Trenton, the serial number 21569 would indicate a. Old industrial site way too much iron in. 95lb TRENTON Anvil Ironsmyter. Subscribe Subscribed Unsubscribe 28 28. There are no numbers or letters on it. The anvil had some. Need help identifying this Trenton anvil. With soapstone or flour and look harder for a serial.
>It was painted blue. It is a lively anvil.
>>Any of you Brits know anything about it's Mfr? Sounds like a Brooks anvil. They are still available new from Centaur Forge. Record also sells some small anvils.
-- STAGESMITH PRODUCTIONS Custom Metal Fabrication ABANA AWS SCA IATSE Local 15/488 Renton, Washington, US Paul Stevens 00:00. William thomas powers wrote: >>Brad, as I wrote you earlier I believed this anvil to be a Hay-Budden. >Last night I reread the Hay-Budden section in Richard Postman's >'Anvils in America', (just published and by far the best work on the >subject available!), and I think I found the clincher! (snip) I haven't found 'Anvils in America' yet, but I've added it to my list of books for future additions to the personal library. Sounds like interesting reading. >BTW although two british firms Mousehole and Peter Wright used the >old hundredweight system of marking, most of the american firms did >not.
They used a simple weight stamp. Hay-Budden also used >a 1-3 digit stamp that is believed to refer to the lot of steel >used in its construction so if the 157 is not indicative of the >weight it is probably this lot number) Would I be correct in interpreting the markings on the side of an anvil: M & H ARMITAGE MOUSE HOLE 0. 21 to mean that it is a 105 lb Mousehole anvil? I haven't been able to find any other markings (the sides were a bit rusty). The hardie hole is 3/4' and the pritchel hole is about 1/2'. There is a seam where the face was attached, and a barely visible seam at the waist.
Arm and hammer anvil serial numbers. It is very easy to confuse an unmarked Arm & Hammer brand anvil (from the. Trenton serial numbers. Whats an old Anvil.
Trenton Anvil Serial Number A 72383
There are three square holes, maybe an inch and a half deep; two on the waist (I've seen pictures of these being used to hold or hoist the anvil during manufacture and refacing), and one in the center of the base (underneath - haven't figured out what it's for yet). What other measurements would be helpful in confirming an identification (or narrowing down the age)? I haven't taken the time (yet) to learn much about the history of the various anvil makers. I know that Mousehole Forge was in England, but that is the extent of my Mousehole knowledge. Is a Mousehole anvil a better find than a Peter Wright, or the other way around, or about equal?
Either way, my wife seems to believe I didn't think of anything else on the day I got it. She's wrong, of course. I got the portable forge on the same day.:) Paul Stevens Fred Holder 00:00. Paul, You have to buy Richard Postman's, Anvils in America, directly from him.
As far as I know, he hasn't placed it with any company for sale. Richard's Address is: Richard Postman 10 Fischer Court Berrian Springs, MI 49103 TEL: (616) 471-5426 Price for the book is $60.00 plus $5.00 shipping and handling.
Yes, your intrepretation of the anvil as a 105 pound MouseHole is correct. The MouseHole anvils were the first commercially produced anvils in the world and i would say that you made a good buy. Fred Holder In article, Paul says.
Paul Stevens 00:00. Fred Holder wrote: >>Paul, >>You have to buy Richard Postman's, Anvils in America, directly from him.
As far >as I know, he hasn't placed it with any company for sale. Richard's Address is: >>Richard Postman >10 Fischer Court >Berrian Springs, MI 49103 >TEL: (616) 471-5426 Thanks for the address. >>Price for the book is $60.00 plus $5.00 shipping and handling. Ouch, gonna have to figure out how to sneak that one past the wife. Christmas isn't too far off. >>Yes, your intrepretation of the anvil as a 105 pound MouseHole is correct.
Trenton Anvil Serial Number List
The >MouseHole anvils were the first commercially produced anvils in the world and i >would say that you made a good buy. Now I've GOT to buy the book to see if I can determine the age of my anvil. That might be enough of a reason to justify the purchase to my wife, but I seriously doubt it.:) Paul Stevens william thomas powers 00:00. >I haven't found 'Anvils in America' yet, but I've added it to my list >of books for future additions to the personal library. Sounds like >interesting reading. Its *THE* book on the subject and I doubt that many libraries will be getting a copy. Its 552 pages, hardcover with lots of pictures and a whole lot better reading than the $60+ textbooks I keep having to get at the University.
BTW there is a 66 page chapter on English Anvils with some information on dating them. >Is a Mousehole anvil >a better find than a Peter Wright, or the other way around, or about >equal? Both are well known firms with good reputations---I prefer the Peter Wright myself since I find the Mouseholes to look kinda squat--look like they were designed to take a lot of abuse.
But I would gladly accept a nice Moushole over a rough Peter Wright any day! >Either way, my wife seems to believe I didn't think of anything >else on the day I got it. She's wrong, of course. I got the portable >forge on the same day.:) How long before you had red hot steel using them? >Paul Stevens Thomas Columbus, OH Paul Stevens 00:00.
William thomas powers wrote: >>>I haven't found 'Anvils in America' yet, but I've added it to my list >>of books for future additions to the personal library. Sounds like >>interesting reading. >>Its *THE* book on the subject and I doubt that many libraries will >be getting a copy. Its 552 pages, hardcover with lots of pictures >and a whole lot better reading than the $60+ textbooks I keep having to >get at the University.
My textbook problems were complicated by the departments changing the required text every year or so. It made used ones hard to find at the University bookstore, and lowered the odds of being able to sell any that I didn't want to keep as reference books. I'll get a copy of 'Anvils in America'.
The only question is how long it will be before I can set aside the money (without my wife noticing). >BTW there is a 66 page chapter on English Anvils with some information >on dating them. That would be helpful.
I know this anvil is fairly old (it was passed down, through the family, to the person I got it from), but I don't know just how old it is. >>Is a Mousehole anvil >>a better find than a Peter Wright, or the other way around, or about >>equal?
>>Both are well known firms with good reputations---I prefer the Peter >Wright myself since I find the Mouseholes to look kinda squat--look >like they were designed to take a lot of abuse. But I would gladly >accept a nice Moushole over a rough Peter Wright any day! I had heard Peter Wright anvils mentioned quite a bit (hoped to find one), but I don't recall coming across the Mousehole name before I found this anvil. I am waiting to hear if two other anvils (around 200 lb and also fairly old) might be available for sale. I haven't seen them yet, maybe one of them will turn out to be a Peter Wright.:) >>>Either way, my wife seems to believe I didn't think of anything >>else on the day I got it. She's wrong, of course.
I got the portable >>forge on the same day.:) >>How long before you had red hot steel using them? >I still had to find coal (an adventure and learning experience in itself). I fired it up the day after I finally got some usable coal, got a few hours practice, then started tinkering with modifications to the forge. It doesn't really have a firepot, just a large grate over the air pipe (at least it has an ash dump). I had a lot of trouble controlling the size of the fire (the grate is domed upwards and the outer ring of holes is angled out, not up), and decided to experiment with clay.
I put a layer of clay on the hearth and covered the outer two rings of holes. That reduced the diameter of the grate, and left it in a shallow depression, instead of raised above the hearth. After the clay dried, I tried it again. It fixed most of my problems, but the depression seems to be too shallow (having trouble getting the fire deep enough). Before I could try any more clay modifications, we got a few days of rain (I don't have a hood and flue yet, so I work outside), then I suddenly had to redo some of the plumbing in my parents house (I'm still trying to finish the plumbing in my house), then work picked up.
I am going to find time to work on it later this week (I need a break from the insanity) and hope to fire it up again this weekend. When I get the bugs worked out, I'll probably look at removing the heavy gauge sheetmetal hearth and putting on the brakedrum I got from a semi at the junkyard.
I'll lose an inch or so in diameter, but double the depth of the hearth. Then I can redo my clay modifications in steel, make some stronger legs. It doesn't seem to end. I've got a pile of leftover bricks (including some firebrick), so I probably need to get a book on building a small cupola (next year - the forge and anvil will definitely use up most of my free time until we get some clear weather in the spring).:) Paul Stevens william thomas powers 00:00. >My textbook problems were complicated by the departments changing the >required text every year or so. It made used ones hard to find at the >University bookstore, and lowered the odds of being able to sell any >that I didn't want to keep as reference books.
Well the worst I had was when we got the rough draft of a proff's *new* textbook and had to pay a pretty penny for a photocopy of a real mess. No index, each chapter started with page 1, typos. >I'll probably look at removing the heavy >gauge sheetmetal hearth and putting on the brakedrum I got from >a semi at the junkyard. I'll lose an inch or so in diameter, but >double the depth of the hearth. Then I can redo my clay modifications >in steel, make some stronger legs.
Why don't you just make the semi brake drum into another less 'portable' forge? BTW semi brakedrums can be too deep for their width. I had a student who tried that route and found that sticking your piece nearly vertical was not the way to get an even heat. He ended up filling the bottom of the drum with gravel, putting a fireclay layer on top of that and then having a massively heavy forge---he abandoned it when he moved. (it would have worked better if he could have cut slots in the rim to allow work to go in horizontally.) I just did a brake drum forge; but used a fairly small brake drum. To get good depth for forge welding I made a heavy gauge sheetmetal rim that fits inside the brake drum rim.
I left about a 2' gap where the ends of the sheet metal came together and cut a 'mousehole' opposite the gap to allow long pieces to poke through. Its blown by a small, old vacuum cleaner---sort of like a dustbuster but from the '50's got it at the fleamarket for $3 without the bag--just a round aluminium pipe, I use a dimmer switch to control the speed---gotta love those universal motors!--al in all I figure I have less than $10 in the forge and it used no special tools to build, (ie: no welder was needed). Then I went and got my propane forge finished off.So many forges, so little time! >Paul Stevens Thomas Columbus, OH Paul Stevens 00:00. William thomas powers wrote: >>>My textbook problems were complicated by the departments changing the >>required text every year or so. It made used ones hard to find at the >>University bookstore, and lowered the odds of being able to sell any >>that I didn't want to keep as reference books.
>>Well the worst I had was when we got the rough draft of a proff's *new* >textbook and had to pay a pretty penny for a photocopy of a real mess. >No index, each chapter started with page 1, typos.
I had an Aerodynamics course that used a textbook that was a little better than that. Fortunately, the department made sure the price was kept low (a little more than the cost of having Kinko's print them). From a technical standpoint, it was a good text (the prof who wrote it was a retired aeronautical engineer), but reading it was a new form of torture. >>>I'll probably look at removing the heavy >>gauge sheetmetal hearth and putting on the brakedrum I got from >>a semi at the junkyard. I'll lose an inch or so in diameter, but >>double the depth of the hearth.
Then I can redo my clay modifications >>in steel, make some stronger legs. >>Why don't you just make the semi brake drum into another less 'portable' >forge?
It will probably progress to that. I'm just tinkering in stages at this point. If I can manage to copy the blower mounting bracket (or even come up with an improvement), I'll definitely make a separate forge. Copying the mount (it takes 15-20 seconds to remove the blower) would allow using one blower (a Champion 400) for both forges.
>BTW semi brakedrums can be too deep for their width. I had a >student who tried that route and found that sticking your piece nearly >vertical was not the way to get an even heat. He ended up filling the >bottom of the drum with gravel, putting a fireclay layer on top >of that and then having a massively heavy forge---he abandoned it when he >moved. (it would have worked better if he could have cut slots in the >rim to allow work to go in horizontally.) I was planning on placing a steel plate (3/8' or so) in the brakedrum and raising it up with small spacers.
The raised plate would allow me to make a firepot of some sort between the plate and the bottom of the drum. I don't know how much of the depth that will use (I'll have a better idea after tinkering some more with the forge I have now), but I was planning to cut gaps in the sides of the brakedrum. I'll cut the slots with a cutoff wheel on a die grinder, so I can just tack some sheetmetal tabs on the removed sections and use them to close the slots (if I ever need to close them). >I just did a brake drum forge; but used a fairly small brake drum. To >get good depth for forge welding I made a heavy gauge sheetmetal rim that >fits inside the brake drum rim.
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I left about a 2' gap where the ends of >the sheet metal came together and cut a 'mousehole' opposite the gap >to allow long pieces to poke through. Its blown by a small, old vacuum >cleaner---sort of like a dustbuster but from the '50's got it >at the fleamarket for $3 without the bag--just a round aluminium pipe, >I use a dimmer switch to control the speed---gotta love those universal >motors!--al in all I figure I have less than $10 in the forge and it >used no special tools to build, (ie: no welder was needed). Then I went >and got my propane forge finished off.So many forges, so little time! >Sounds like a nice little forge. I'm trying to work with what I have or can easily find to make a forge for small to medium size work.
If I can copy my blower mount, it would make sense to have two forges (one for small work, the other for larger projects). There are just too many things I don't like about my forge (as it was when I got it) for me to not try to improve it. I just couldn't pass it up at the price I got it for (free!), and it had that blower in good shape on it.:) Paul Stevens.
>More to the point, amongst the nearly complete set of blacksmith >tools I am now the proud owner of is the anvil. It is marked >underneath the horn, on the foot, with a series of stamped >numbers/letters. The first character looks like a capital T with a >capital Z that has been rotated clockwise 45 degrees stamped over the >top of the T; not above it, but in the same space as the T.
>Following that is '157' a bit of a space, and then 'A86799' I have >not found any other legible markings. All the characters are about >1/2' tall. The anvil has a seam visible at the waist, and a fine line >visible where the top plate is attached. It has both a hardie and >pritchel hole also. It has a nice ring to it when struck. >Is that enough information for anyone to identify the beast? >Brad Heuver Brad, as I wrote you earlier I believed this anvil to be a Hay-Budden.
Last night I reread the Hay-Budden section in Richard Postman's 'Anvils in America', (just published and by far the best work on the subject available!), and I think I found the clincher! 'There is one other diference in those anvils with the 'A' prefix. The number on the front of the waist under the horn is always a '4'. Somtimes the '4' is upside down.' This 'upside down `4' sure sounds like your 'T-Z' mark. Please double check the serial though the 'A' series are not listed as having gone as far as the 80K's, (if it is a 30K number it was made in the early 1920's) BTW although two british firms Mousehole and Peter Wright used the old hundredweight system of marking, most of the american firms did not. They used a simple weight stamp.
In article, Gene Olson wrote: >Well, as long as we are in ID mode. >(what the heck as long as it works) >>I bought an anvil new in about 1971. >>I would describe it as cast steel. >It is marked England on one side and 77 kg on the other. >It has a very thick heel and 1 1/4 in hardee hole.
>It was painted blue. It is a lively anvil. >>Any of you Brits know anything about it's Mfr? Sounds like a Brooks anvil. They are still available new from Centaur Forge.
Record also sells some small anvils. -- STAGESMITH PRODUCTIONS Custom Metal Fabrication ABANA AWS SCA IATSE Local 15/488 Renton, Washington, US Paul Stevens 00:00. William thomas powers wrote: >>Brad, as I wrote you earlier I believed this anvil to be a Hay-Budden. >Last night I reread the Hay-Budden section in Richard Postman's >'Anvils in America', (just published and by far the best work on the >subject available!), and I think I found the clincher!
(snip) I haven't found 'Anvils in America' yet, but I've added it to my list of books for future additions to the personal library. Sounds like interesting reading. >BTW although two british firms Mousehole and Peter Wright used the >old hundredweight system of marking, most of the american firms did >not.
They used a simple weight stamp. Hay-Budden also used >a 1-3 digit stamp that is believed to refer to the lot of steel >used in its construction so if the 157 is not indicative of the >weight it is probably this lot number) Would I be correct in interpreting the markings on the side of an anvil: M & H ARMITAGE MOUSE HOLE 0. 21 to mean that it is a 105 lb Mousehole anvil? I haven't been able to find any other markings (the sides were a bit rusty). The hardie hole is 3/4' and the pritchel hole is about 1/2'.
There is a seam where the face was attached, and a barely visible seam at the waist. There are three square holes, maybe an inch and a half deep; two on the waist (I've seen pictures of these being used to hold or hoist the anvil during manufacture and refacing), and one in the center of the base (underneath - haven't figured out what it's for yet). What other measurements would be helpful in confirming an identification (or narrowing down the age)? I haven't taken the time (yet) to learn much about the history of the various anvil makers.
It9130 Bda Driver Windows 7 64 Bit. I know that Mousehole Forge was in England, but that is the extent of my Mousehole knowledge. Is a Mousehole anvil a better find than a Peter Wright, or the other way around, or about equal? Either way, my wife seems to believe I didn't think of anything else on the day I got it.
She's wrong, of course. I got the portable forge on the same day.:) Paul Stevens Fred Holder 00:00. Paul, You have to buy Richard Postman's, Anvils in America, directly from him. As far as I know, he hasn't placed it with any company for sale. Richard's Address is: Richard Postman 10 Fischer Court Berrian Springs, MI 49103 TEL: (616) 471-5426 Price for the book is $60.00 plus $5.00 shipping and handling.
Yes, your intrepretation of the anvil as a 105 pound MouseHole is correct. The MouseHole anvils were the first commercially produced anvils in the world and i would say that you made a good buy. Fred Holder In article, Paul says. Paul Stevens 00:00. Fred Holder wrote: >>Paul, >>You have to buy Richard Postman's, Anvils in America, directly from him.
As far >as I know, he hasn't placed it with any company for sale. Richard's Address is: >>Richard Postman >10 Fischer Court >Berrian Springs, MI 49103 >TEL: (616) 471-5426 Thanks for the address. >>Price for the book is $60.00 plus $5.00 shipping and handling.
Ouch, gonna have to figure out how to sneak that one past the wife. Christmas isn't too far off.
>>Yes, your intrepretation of the anvil as a 105 pound MouseHole is correct. The >MouseHole anvils were the first commercially produced anvils in the world and i >would say that you made a good buy. Now I've GOT to buy the book to see if I can determine the age of my anvil. That might be enough of a reason to justify the purchase to my wife, but I seriously doubt it.:) Paul Stevens william thomas powers 00:00. >I haven't found 'Anvils in America' yet, but I've added it to my list >of books for future additions to the personal library. Sounds like >interesting reading. Its *THE* book on the subject and I doubt that many libraries will be getting a copy.
Its 552 pages, hardcover with lots of pictures and a whole lot better reading than the $60+ textbooks I keep having to get at the University. BTW there is a 66 page chapter on English Anvils with some information on dating them. >Is a Mousehole anvil >a better find than a Peter Wright, or the other way around, or about >equal?
Both are well known firms with good reputations---I prefer the Peter Wright myself since I find the Mouseholes to look kinda squat--look like they were designed to take a lot of abuse. But I would gladly accept a nice Moushole over a rough Peter Wright any day! >Either way, my wife seems to believe I didn't think of anything >else on the day I got it. She's wrong, of course. I got the portable >forge on the same day.:) How long before you had red hot steel using them? >Paul Stevens Thomas Columbus, OH Paul Stevens 00:00. Neogeo.zip bios retropie. William thomas powers wrote: >>>I haven't found 'Anvils in America' yet, but I've added it to my list >>of books for future additions to the personal library.
Sounds like >>interesting reading. >>Its *THE* book on the subject and I doubt that many libraries will >be getting a copy. Its 552 pages, hardcover with lots of pictures >and a whole lot better reading than the $60+ textbooks I keep having to >get at the University. My textbook problems were complicated by the departments changing the required text every year or so. It made used ones hard to find at the University bookstore, and lowered the odds of being able to sell any that I didn't want to keep as reference books.
Old Trenton Anvil Serial Numbers Location Numbers
I'll get a copy of 'Anvils in America'. The only question is how long it will be before I can set aside the money (without my wife noticing). >BTW there is a 66 page chapter on English Anvils with some information >on dating them. That would be helpful. I know this anvil is fairly old (it was passed down, through the family, to the person I got it from), but I don't know just how old it is. >>Is a Mousehole anvil >>a better find than a Peter Wright, or the other way around, or about >>equal? >>Both are well known firms with good reputations---I prefer the Peter >Wright myself since I find the Mouseholes to look kinda squat--look >like they were designed to take a lot of abuse.
But I would gladly >accept a nice Moushole over a rough Peter Wright any day! I had heard Peter Wright anvils mentioned quite a bit (hoped to find one), but I don't recall coming across the Mousehole name before I found this anvil. I am waiting to hear if two other anvils (around 200 lb and also fairly old) might be available for sale. I haven't seen them yet, maybe one of them will turn out to be a Peter Wright.:) >>>Either way, my wife seems to believe I didn't think of anything >>else on the day I got it. She's wrong, of course. I got the portable >>forge on the same day.:) >>How long before you had red hot steel using them?
>I still had to find coal (an adventure and learning experience in itself). I fired it up the day after I finally got some usable coal, got a few hours practice, then started tinkering with modifications to the forge. It doesn't really have a firepot, just a large grate over the air pipe (at least it has an ash dump). I had a lot of trouble controlling the size of the fire (the grate is domed upwards and the outer ring of holes is angled out, not up), and decided to experiment with clay.
I put a layer of clay on the hearth and covered the outer two rings of holes. That reduced the diameter of the grate, and left it in a shallow depression, instead of raised above the hearth. After the clay dried, I tried it again. It fixed most of my problems, but the depression seems to be too shallow (having trouble getting the fire deep enough).
Before I could try any more clay modifications, we got a few days of rain (I don't have a hood and flue yet, so I work outside), then I suddenly had to redo some of the plumbing in my parents house (I'm still trying to finish the plumbing in my house), then work picked up. I am going to find time to work on it later this week (I need a break from the insanity) and hope to fire it up again this weekend. When I get the bugs worked out, I'll probably look at removing the heavy gauge sheetmetal hearth and putting on the brakedrum I got from a semi at the junkyard. I'll lose an inch or so in diameter, but double the depth of the hearth. Then I can redo my clay modifications in steel, make some stronger legs. It doesn't seem to end. I've got a pile of leftover bricks (including some firebrick), so I probably need to get a book on building a small cupola (next year - the forge and anvil will definitely use up most of my free time until we get some clear weather in the spring).:) Paul Stevens william thomas powers 00:00.
>My textbook problems were complicated by the departments changing the >required text every year or so. It made used ones hard to find at the >University bookstore, and lowered the odds of being able to sell any >that I didn't want to keep as reference books.
Well the worst I had was when we got the rough draft of a proff's *new* textbook and had to pay a pretty penny for a photocopy of a real mess. No index, each chapter started with page 1, typos. >I'll probably look at removing the heavy >gauge sheetmetal hearth and putting on the brakedrum I got from >a semi at the junkyard. I'll lose an inch or so in diameter, but >double the depth of the hearth. Then I can redo my clay modifications >in steel, make some stronger legs. Why don't you just make the semi brake drum into another less 'portable' forge? BTW semi brakedrums can be too deep for their width.
I had a student who tried that route and found that sticking your piece nearly vertical was not the way to get an even heat. He ended up filling the bottom of the drum with gravel, putting a fireclay layer on top of that and then having a massively heavy forge---he abandoned it when he moved. (it would have worked better if he could have cut slots in the rim to allow work to go in horizontally.) I just did a brake drum forge; but used a fairly small brake drum. To get good depth for forge welding I made a heavy gauge sheetmetal rim that fits inside the brake drum rim. I left about a 2' gap where the ends of the sheet metal came together and cut a 'mousehole' opposite the gap to allow long pieces to poke through.
Its blown by a small, old vacuum cleaner---sort of like a dustbuster but from the '50's got it at the fleamarket for $3 without the bag--just a round aluminium pipe, I use a dimmer switch to control the speed---gotta love those universal motors!--al in all I figure I have less than $10 in the forge and it used no special tools to build, (ie: no welder was needed). Then I went and got my propane forge finished off.So many forges, so little time! >Paul Stevens Thomas Columbus, OH Paul Stevens 00:00. William thomas powers wrote: >>>My textbook problems were complicated by the departments changing the >>required text every year or so. It made used ones hard to find at the >>University bookstore, and lowered the odds of being able to sell any >>that I didn't want to keep as reference books. >>Well the worst I had was when we got the rough draft of a proff's *new* >textbook and had to pay a pretty penny for a photocopy of a real mess. >No index, each chapter started with page 1, typos.
I had an Aerodynamics course that used a textbook that was a little better than that. Fortunately, the department made sure the price was kept low (a little more than the cost of having Kinko's print them). From a technical standpoint, it was a good text (the prof who wrote it was a retired aeronautical engineer), but reading it was a new form of torture. >>>I'll probably look at removing the heavy >>gauge sheetmetal hearth and putting on the brakedrum I got from >>a semi at the junkyard. I'll lose an inch or so in diameter, but >>double the depth of the hearth. Then I can redo my clay modifications >>in steel, make some stronger legs. >>Why don't you just make the semi brake drum into another less 'portable' >forge?
It will probably progress to that. I'm just tinkering in stages at this point. If I can manage to copy the blower mounting bracket (or even come up with an improvement), I'll definitely make a separate forge. Copying the mount (it takes 15-20 seconds to remove the blower) would allow using one blower (a Champion 400) for both forges. >BTW semi brakedrums can be too deep for their width. I had a >student who tried that route and found that sticking your piece nearly >vertical was not the way to get an even heat.
He ended up filling the >bottom of the drum with gravel, putting a fireclay layer on top >of that and then having a massively heavy forge---he abandoned it when he >moved. (it would have worked better if he could have cut slots in the >rim to allow work to go in horizontally.) I was planning on placing a steel plate (3/8' or so) in the brakedrum and raising it up with small spacers. The raised plate would allow me to make a firepot of some sort between the plate and the bottom of the drum. I don't know how much of the depth that will use (I'll have a better idea after tinkering some more with the forge I have now), but I was planning to cut gaps in the sides of the brakedrum. I'll cut the slots with a cutoff wheel on a die grinder, so I can just tack some sheetmetal tabs on the removed sections and use them to close the slots (if I ever need to close them).
American Trenton Anvils
>I just did a brake drum forge; but used a fairly small brake drum. To >get good depth for forge welding I made a heavy gauge sheetmetal rim that >fits inside the brake drum rim. I left about a 2' gap where the ends of >the sheet metal came together and cut a 'mousehole' opposite the gap >to allow long pieces to poke through.
Its blown by a small, old vacuum >cleaner---sort of like a dustbuster but from the '50's got it >at the fleamarket for $3 without the bag--just a round aluminium pipe, >I use a dimmer switch to control the speed---gotta love those universal >motors!--al in all I figure I have less than $10 in the forge and it >used no special tools to build, (ie: no welder was needed). Then I went >and got my propane forge finished off.So many forges, so little time! >Sounds like a nice little forge. I'm trying to work with what I have or can easily find to make a forge for small to medium size work.
If I can copy my blower mount, it would make sense to have two forges (one for small work, the other for larger projects). There are just too many things I don't like about my forge (as it was when I got it) for me to not try to improve it. I just couldn't pass it up at the price I got it for (free!), and it had that blower in good shape on it.:) Paul Stevens.
pixelsnowbot.netlify.com › ★ Trenton Anvil Serial Numbers
Greetings, According to my quick read of Anvils in America you have: A Columbus Forge and Iron made anvil. (Columbus, OH.) Probably with a cast iron base welded to a solid wrought upper works. (weld at the waist.) Serial number 18199 would have been 1900.
![Trenton anvil dates Trenton anvil dates](/uploads/1/1/8/7/118722215/758188050.jpg)
(1900 ran from 12001-20,000) Very good quality anvils. Looks like yours is in pretty decent shape. There were Trenton anvils imported from Germany before 1890, but this isn't one of them. The feet details are wrong.
So it's definitely a CF&I anvil. I would say you have scored well. Regards, Brian. I would have to agree, that it is not a Trenton (unless it is an early one). I have a 1926 built 158# Trenton #193904, and you can see the hammer marks up and down the whole waist under the tail and the horn. Also the pocket on the underside is oval and not shaped to match the foot.
Trenton Anvil Company
Early CF&I anvils were cast base, not sure if they continued that into the Trenton line. On mine the weight and serial are heavily stamped, but the Trenton marking is barely there, can only make out the `ento' part of the name. For those who don't know it, Columbus Forge & Iron was started by Sy and Carl Wright (descendants of anvil maker Peter Wright), They forge welded the Trenton Anvils under a Steam Hammer.
If you look at the image on the front of Anvils in America, that is a painting by Nathan Green (painted in 1996), based on photographs of anvils being made at CF&I, the fellow in the center is Carl, and Sy is the fellow on the tongs. The history above is from a friend who knew Richard Postman. Below was also related to me when I was looking for more info on my anvil back in 2007. `As an aside, Mr. Postman told me he had met someone who had worked for CF&I before they closed. He noted the old metal sided building was hot as a furnace in summer and cold as a freezer in winter.
Trenton Anvil Serial Numbers List
He commented, apparently with pride, they had only one guy pass out due to the heat. Most of their workers were either direct or first generation Europeans and then mostly from Eastern Europe, such as Poland.' Kinda speaks about the type of immigrant workers we used to get plenty of in previous generations, and occasionally still get. Sorry to hear about your experiences with Iforgeiron. Some sections are more active than others, and replies depend on how many other topics are hot, moving yours down the list (same with any forum).
I havn't tried to setup a new profile after the last upgrade, but when I did it was easy and straight forward. If a topic gets burried you may have to bump it (create a new message in it to bring it to the top of the list).
When was the last time you tried to contact the moderators? Here is the current Contact us page: The General discussion page, of course is the most active, but the others tend to see daily activity, it all depends on what people are looking for info on and how many visit. Regards, Rich C.
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If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact. I thought it would be fun to guess at the weight.
Along with guessing, I tried to reference Richard Postman's Anvils in America and at 32-1/2' long it fits the overall length for 250 lb as listed in the Hay-Budden section. A popular sized 150 lb Hay-Budden is listed as having a 4 x 16-1/2' face plate and 10-1/2' horn for an overall length of 27' I will be very humbled when/if it is finally weighed it is under 200 lbs. I have included pictures of 85 lb and 200 lb Trenton manufactured Acme anvils as reference to change in scale as Anvil weight increases.
Nine: i thought it was a BIG UN. Now to see how good your purchase really was put a straight edge on the top from end to end and side to side to see how straight the top is. Also if you have a steel ball to bounce off the top to see if it bounces back into your hand for a great rebound. If those are great then you get a Father's Day YOU SUCK award and if not some anvils that don't pass the test have either been in a fire, abused or poorly made in the first place. Also my other suggestion as a nice piece of gym equipment is even better now that you have a 250 pounder. Better buy an inversion table to use if you are planning on moving it around much.